ON the face of it, the proprietors of the Lulworth Cove Inn can’t go far wrong.

The location alone is a head start on other establishments, being, as it is, a stone’s throw from the famous cove, and a short walk over a cracking coastal path to one of Dorset’s most famous landmarks, Durdle Door.

Throw into the mix a hearty menu featuring lamb stew, fish pie, sausage and mash and steak, as well as a sprinkling of warm and helpful staff, and it’s a recipe for success.

It even offers rooms for those who overindulge in the wine or selection of ales from Badger brewery.

After a ten-mile hike in the Purbeck Hills, a starter was definitely in order and, with larder boards and sharing platters, there are a lot of options.

But it was the hot and crunchy platter which won, and arrived at our table nicely presented, with potato wedges in a tin can and the rest of the goodies spread out on a wooden board. There were four of each – wedges, barbecue chicken wings and crab cakes – which, with three of us sharing, produced a tense moment reminiscent of Christmas dinner when there’s only one pig-in-a-blanket left.

But we got through the moment amicably enough and with all our fingers still intact, and turned our attention to the miniature plate of tortilla chips, ground beef and guacamole. It was when we were waiting for our mains to arrive that we had chance to discuss the decor.

“It’s strange,” was my brother’s verdict. “Kind of like it half wants to be a country pub and half wants to be a bit more upmarket and can’t quite make up its mind.”

Dad was able to be more specific. “It needs a log fire. Or a wood burner.”

The temperature was, indeed, a little chilly, but the arrival of my lamb stew soon remedied that. It was delicious and filling, and came with a generous helping of sourdough bread, which was enough to stop me regretting having made the difficult choice between that and wild boar sausages with mash.

In fact, we were all quite impressed with the menu of pub classics with a twist. There are plenty of meat and fish options although vegetarians may struggle a little.

The others went for tuna steak with couscous and a steak and ale pie served with mash and bubble and squeak. Delicious.