A short trip to Bordeaux turned out to be a rather pleasant way of escaping the grey skies and rain for a few days. With temperatures hovering around 25 degrees, leaves turning to shades of gold and red on the vine and the harvest well and truly over, this was the perfect time to visit catch up with a few winemakers.
The 2006 vintage looks like a good one overall, although not spectacular, with sudden weather changes keeping the Bordelais on their toes as usual.
On arrival I tried a few reds, amongst them the Chteau Tour Prignac 2004, Cru Bourgeois (£8.99, Oddbins) which is formed from roughly equal parts of Merlot and Cabernet with a 4% splash of Malbec. This is showing some attractive green pepper notes in a cascade of cassis and forest fruits.
This was followed by a taste of the Chteau Martinat 2004, Cte de Bourg (£9.99, Oddbins) in the company of the winemaker who turned out to be a most entertaining and jovial Frenchman.
A vibrant ruby colour with crimson hues, the bouquet is dominated by seductive sweet black fruits on a background of minerals and clay. The palate is well balanced and enduring - cracking value for money.
I arrived in the region of Sauternes late the next the day, with the autumn sunshine casting a warm glow over the vineyards of Chteau Bastor-Lamontagne, and the pair of trees which have towered over the entrance for a good 250 years or more. Chteau Bastor-Lamontagne 2003 (£11.99, Oddbins half bottle) shows complex, earthy notes on the nose along with mouthwatering exotic fruits. With a substantial level of sugars residing in the finish wine, it is certainly a sweetie but the fresh, tongue-tingling acidity balances the over all wine to perfection. As the sun went down, I found myself rather reluctant to leave and secretly wishing that Monsieur Garat would lock me in the cellar with the older vintages and throw away the key.
Chteau La Rame was my next stop, where I was greeted by winemaker Yves Armandt and a glass of Chteau La Rame Sublime 2002, (£12.34, 50cl Waitrose) which certainly deserves its name. This property is perched high on a hill in Sainte-Croix-du-Mont on a bed of fossilised oyster shells, with the silhouette of Chateau d'Yquem interrupting the horizon. This classic Bordeaux sweet wine varieties, Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, join forces to form a floral, honeyed wine with layers of tropical fruit and a hint of nettles.
A taste of Chteaux Le Boscq 2001, St. Estphe (www.enotria. co.uk for stockists) kicked off the last day in style. I was greeted just after breakfast with ripe plum, prune and wild berry notes carried on a decidedly elegant and feminine structure to the mineral finish.
Then it was on to Margaux, in the Mdoc, and more specifically the 3rd growth Chteau Cantenac Brown. This property is sandwiched between Chteaux Palmer and Rauzan-Sgla amongst 45 sandy gravelly hectares of low-trained Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc vines.
The softly spoken Jos Sanfins has been acting winemaker here since 1989, and is responsible for these good-value, well-made wines. I tried a selection of vintages spanning the last decade and found delicate perfumes, ripe fruit and finesse in every one. Try the Chteau Cantenac Brown 2001 (£33.99, Oddbins).
The second label Chteau Brio 2004 (www.bibendum-wine.co.uk for stockists) is a stunner. Aromas of red and black berries lead to stewed fruits and refreshing acidity carried on a wave of dangerously silky textures.
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