As an avid viewer of the ‘management masterclass’ that is Gordon Ramsay’s Hell’s Kitchen USA, I’ve always been interested in getting a closer look at a restaurant kitchen.

But as a diner – and not one of the cooks (or victims like on Ramsay’s show).

Now with the Harbour Heights Hotel in Sandbanks introducing a Chef’s Table experience I finally got my chance.

As we arrived at the hotel foyer, I stumbled upon an exquisite display of seafood and, considering the temperament of chefs like Ramsay, I wondered whether it was only the lobster that was going to be cooked alive that night.

So it was with some trepidation that I strolled into the award-winning, two AA rosette Harbar Bistro restaurant.

But instead of being greeted by a tyrannical Ramsay type, I was introduced to lively senior sous chef Mark Nagle, and his four-strong squad.

Essex-boy Mark, a Lee Evans-alike (without the sweat), explained he was running the show as head chef Norman was in London, but he vowed our evening would be just as good. And, from the look of the food, I doubted he was wrong.

Perched just inches from the hotplate with a glass of Sauvignon Blanc in hand, we browsed the three-course menu of culinary delights to come.

First up was an amuse bouche: local artichoke soup with truffle oil and chives. A delicious start.

As Mark served up the treacle-cured salmon gravadlax with dill, new potato salad, pickled cucumber and lemon yoghurt dressing, I was pleased to hear that most of the seafood on offer was caught on Portland.

Next up was a palate cleanser of waxed pear and Champagne, which cleared the taste buds for the main event – the slow-roasted pork loin, served with bramley apple puree and crackling, which literally fell onto the fork.

Coupled with the steamed cavolo nero, creamy vitelotte mash potato (yes, that’s purple potato) and a red wine sauce, I had never tasted a combination like it.

It was cooked with such delicacy you could taste every ingredient.

Next was a pre-dessert of vanilla pannacota, with autumn fruit compote and oaty nut crumble.

I thought this would be hard to beat until the warm English plum and toasted almond tart with posh toffee ice cream came my way to conclude the meal.

The perfect way to end the evening.

For those who love their food – and want to get up close and personal with what’s on their plate – this is an eating experience not to be missed.

• The Chef’s Table, which includes a glass of wine and a bottle of water, is priced at £45 per person and takes place every Friday at 7pm.