You could take your pick of Cornish seaside towns and have something positive to say about each one.

The further you travel down the pincer-like peninsulas the more quaint coves, windswept beaches and welcoming communities await. But St Ives has something special.

The famous artist connection, of course, the Tate St Ives, the Barbara Hepworth Museum. Its history of smuggling, the steep, cobbled streets sparking romantic ideas of daring young men on the run from the law. The seafood – as wonderful as everywhere else in Cornwall – and the dark, welcoming pubs frequented by locals with fascinating tales. The eccentric shops selling everything imaginable, and much that isn’t, as you wander from room to room, taking care not to bang your head on the low door frames, discovering a life-sized driftwood lion, a pre-electronic cash register from the 1970s, handmade jewellery. And, of course, the proximity of that wild sea and coastline.

To me, it wasn’t one of these things which gives St Ives its edge. It’s all of them.

We stayed in the No 4 bed and breakfast, slightly out of the town centre – and therefore much easier to reach by car – but well within a few minutes’ walk of the beach, shops and restaurants. Our hosts Sue and Mike Summers were welcoming, like all people we later met in St Ives, and had a wealth of knowledge on what to do and where to go.

And – rather inevitably – the top of our list was the Tate. Even those who know next to nothing about modern art (and I count myself amongst those people) can spend an enjoyable afternoon here. If a quiet Cornish seaside town seems a strange location for a world-renowned gallery, then a stroll among the streets is enough to discover St Ives’ artistic legacy. From the Barbara Hepworth sculpture garden to the countless small galleries active today, artists have been living and working here for decades.

And the Tate St Ives is the crowning glory of this heritage. Even the building itself prompts you to sit and consider its design, and among the permanent exhibitions are fresh collaborations – an exhibition inspired by the writings of Virginia Woolf was on display while we were there.

Having, perhaps, discovered a taste for modern art, we enjoyed visiting the open galleries in the town, examining the paintings on sale by artists plying their trade there today. It’s the light, apparently, that makes St Ives so popular among artists, and the various representations of the sea are enough to make anyone stand in awe at the water’s power.

Speaking of which, a visit to St Ives is not complete without a wander on the coast path. It’s an easy, short walk around the ‘island’ peninsula, which, once you round the head, feels as remote and weather-battered as any far-flung headland. Lucky visitors might spot seals on the Porthmeor side, we were told by a helpful couple with binoculars.

When you’re hungry there’s plenty of cafes for lunch – many will also provide packed lunches if you want to head off on a longer walk. Thick, doorstep sandwiches from the Cornish Deli are enough to sate the hungriest appetite while the Scoff Troff offers a wide-ranging menu with something for everyone.

And at night-time, visitors will be hard-pressed to choose between tasty fish and chips or delicious, fresh seafood from the restaurants or characteristic little pubs lining the seafront.

St Ives is a year-round destination that really offers something for everyone – with that extra special something for good measure. What is it exactly? I’m still not sure, but I’m already planning my next trip to find out.

Factfile:

Prices at No4 start from £90 per night, including breakfast. no4stives.com

For more about St Ives visit stives-cornwall.co.uk