I would just like to take a moment to pay my sincere respects to the inventor of gaffer tape. Mr Gaffer, you have done us proud and without you, this trip would have been a lot more difficult. Currently we have a number of items held together by gaffer tape. My camera battery charger, the dashboard and the beer fridge to name a few.

It was also used to attach yahtzee scoresheets to the card table since we broke the rear shock absorber. Alas shock absorbers aren't fixable with gaffer tape. We soldier on though, we just put up with the bouncy beer terrace.

Anyway, Wednesday morning and we were woken by a filling station owner peering in at us, wondering why a Bristol VR double decker bus had appeared overnight on his forecourt. He was a pleasant chap though and very grateful for the 2006 vintage yellow Weymouth football shirt we donated to him. We pushed on towards Aleppo. By now I was in desperate need of a shower. 3 days and nights on the road and I think I am developing an outer crust. My contact lens solution is like oxtail soup and I need more storage space as some of my clothing is fermenting.

We entered Aleppo with Eileen at the wheel. We fought our way through the psychopathic drivers with cars covered in bumps and grazes. Worrying times and great relief that it wasn't me behind the wheel. We arrived at the citadel almost in one piece, losing a section of the upper awning rail to a passing tree. The wires and banners across the streets are worryingly low. We nearly gained some pretty dangly lighting, or nearly lost some garotted team members depending on how strong the wiring was.

A helpful chap, we never learnt his name, offered to take us to a bank to get cash. This involved a taxi ride, which he paid for. On our return, I offered him more than what he had paid out and he seemed genuinely suprised and reluctant to take it. It was so refreshing, finding someone willing to put themselves out for complete strangers without any thought of reward. I almost felt shameful that I had felt cynical when he first offered to help. I shouldn't judge all people we meet by the same standards but its hard to trust when your fingers have been burnt.

After a tour of the souk, purchasing Syrian football shirts and the obligatory checkered tea towels, we were back on board leaving town towards Crac Des Chevaliers.

Its amazing the amount of attention we are getting.. Its like the population have never seen a red Bristol VR before.

We refuelled 100km south at about 30p a litre. I'm bringing a few gallons back as hand luggage.