You could be forgiven for never having heard of Crieff. Why would you? In a way it’s Scotland’s best-kept secret; centrally located, a few hours’ drive from Edinburgh and the ski-resort of Glenshee and perfect for walking, lake-sailing, cycling, orienteering, shooting, fishing and deer-stalking, if you’re that way inclined.

And many are; hundreds of them, and most of them Scottish or so it appeared, as we were to discover, they’re a sporty lot.

But as we arrived on a late winter’s afternoon, snow freezing on the ground, we were in the mood for a bit of relaxing which was fortunate as the Knock Castle Hotel seems made for it.

Built in the Baronial French style; all turrets, crenellations and wood-panelling, we were whisked upstairs to one of the most magnificent and luxurious hotel bedrooms I’ve ever seen.

At the centre of the Glen Almond suite was a bed the size of Perthshire and a bathroom, complete with sunken tub and scattered rose petals occupied our other turret.

After unpacking into giant closets it was off to the spa for a sauna, steam and a float in the pool where you can witness the scarlet sun setting over the distant mountains.

This was a real bonus but as we soon discovered, the real asset of this place is its talented, hospitable and knowledgeable staff.

We'd come to Scotland in search of walks, skiing and taking in the magnificent countryside but it didn't take us long to realise how little we actually knew of this part of the world.

Cue the barman. After mixing a couple of demon vodka martinis; the amount of alcohol in which left me shaken and slurred, he then regaled us with a stream of useful information about what you can get up to in this beautiful corner of the UK.

There is a general right to roam (although you might want to note that during the open season there may be gunshot across the glens!).

You may not even need a licence to fish although, he explained, there are laws governing permissions and times when fishing is not allowed.

Cycling is very popular and even in the winter months, kayaking and sailing takes place on the nearby loch.

Fired up by this, the magnificent martinis and by an evening meal of Scotland's finest fare; lamb, vegetables, distinctive local cheeses and excellent wines served in the restaurant at the top of the building, we planned our first full day and spent it hiking the Glen Ogle cycle trail, wandering through the pine forest and hopping the rocks at the spectacular Falls of Dochart in the village of Killin.

One of our principal reasons for driving to Scotland was so that I could try skiing again, after suffering slipped discs a few years ago.

We had planned to do this at Cairngorm.

But, after yet more cocktails that evening and a meal of the finest Aberdeen Angus and more spot-on wine, cue the barman again. Where were we travelling to next?

The charmingly-named Boat of Garten, we told him. Within minutes he was advising us to stop at the Highland resort of Glenshee where, he said, he skied regularly and which would be perfect for the nervous re-starter like me.

After a mighty Scottish cooked breakfast (sausages, white pudding, potatoes, delicious bacon, fruit, scrambled eggs, juice, toast, marmalade) with views across the pines to the mountains, we left Knock Castle to discover that everything the barman said was true.

Huge skies, grouse scuttling across snow fall, and champagne air await you, and Glenshee itself is certainly not the skiing backwater that Alpine aficionados would have you believe.

There were no queues, all the 22 lifts and 36 runs were open and – best of all – I was back on the planks and taking reds before it was time to leave.

The road from Glenshee takes you to Braemar and so close to Balmoral you can see that famous tower.

Then you are hurled into some of the wildest countryside in the British Isles (very like that bit in Skyfall when James Bond returns to his ancestral home).

We wanted to be out skiing and walking but if that’s not your thing, there are plenty of classic distilleries to visit and in Scotland you are never far away from a golf course, including such legendary greens as Carnoustie or the Royal and Ancient.

And, like the walking and the fishing, the egalitarian spirit blasts through to these; you really can pay and play even the championship courses.

Our trip continued to Boat of Garten and then a friend's house in Aberdeen but we still had a little something to remind us of the joys of Knock Castle.

Visitors there are treated to the most divine chocolates known to humanity – so rich you can only eat one at a time.

I managed to consume the last of mine as we approached Aberdeen itself.

But my memories of Scotland in general and the comfort and splendour of Knock Castle in particular will last forever.

Winter has never been such fun.

  • knockcastle.com