Upmarket Mallorca is celebrating a century of tourism. Alita Miles reports...

PRINCESS Diana had a marvellous time, supermodel Kate Moss said she can't wait for a return visit and actor Michael Douglas, even after his marriage to Catherine Zeta Jones, loves to stay in the secluded villa which was lovingly decorated by his ex-wife Diandra.

Where is this heavenly idyll which has such a strong pull on discerning travellers? Not an exclusive hideaway in some far-flung corner of the world, but a "staple" destination of British holidaymakers - Mallorca.

Mallorca? Yes, really. But this Mallorca is a million miles away from the Majorca - spelt and pronounced with a j - of '70s Spanish summer packages, complete with the hordes roasting on the beach and lager-sodden yobs partying to the blaring disco by the pool.

As the island celebrates a century of tourism this year, it is developing a more up-market niche, making it an ideal destination for a spring break just two hours away by air.

Outside the peak holiday season the Mallorquins claim their island back and visitors can experience its relaxed winter guise without having to do battle with crowds on coach excursions.

The roads are quiet and you don't have to crane your neck over camera-toting daytrippers to glimpse the sights at viewpoints. The mild winter temperatures are ideal for walking and cycling, and on a good day it is warm enough to sunbathe on a deserted beach.

The capital Palma, often bypassed by the majority of the millions of visitors on their way to the resorts, is an ideal base for a short stay.

It is a confident and stylish city with a vibrant caf society and a haven for shoppers, whether it's chocolate almonds from the supermarket or fashionable shoes from a swanky boutique.

Go on a harbour cruise or try an architecturally-themed walk around town. Between November and April around 500 concerts are held at different venues, many of historical and cultural interest. The programme features soloists, chamber groups, choirs and orchestras and the performances are free.

Many hotels in Palma have been refurbished with facilities to match the best in any European capital.

Those on the waterside offer spectacular views of the sweeping bay with the golden cathedral on one side and fleets of luxury yachts and motor-cruisers on the other.

These four- and five-star hotels specialise in catering to every whim of their guests and feeding them exceptionally well - breakfast buffets feature everything from fresh strawberries to smoked salmon.

For an evening meal try one of the many tapas bars patronised by the locals. For fish and seafood dishes head to the Taberna de la Boveda to sample plump and juicy prawns with garlic shoots and red peppers stuffed with salt cod. After a selection of home-made deserts round it all up with lemon ice cream generously laced with bourbon.

You can walk some of it off on a day of gentle exercise in Sller by taking the Tren de Sller which links the mountain village to the capital. Launched by enterprising locals in 1912 the carriages still retain their turn-of-the-century character.

As the train chugs inland, the Tramuntana mountain range looms closer and higher on the horizon, and passengers are swept past miles of orange groves with the juicy fruit hanging on trees within an arm's reach.

The village is ideal for walking and dedicated hikers can invest in a copy of the widely-recommended Landscapes of Mallorca, which covers all levels from coastal strolls to challenging climbs.

And if you are caught in a rare wet day, use it as an excuse to sample a mumba, a potent mixture of brandy and hot chocolate.

While in Sller, pop round to Can Det, the home of Tomeu Deya.

By day 38-year-old Tomeu is the director of the island's tourism board, but his evenings and weekends are devoted to making olive oil on his ancestral oil press which dates back to 1651. It is housed inside the family home, Can Det, and he will show you how they grind and press the olives the traditional way and you can buy some of the glistening liquid in a stylish bottle.

It's all a world away from the beans on toast and rough sangria characteristics of the cheap and cheerful mass tourism that British holidaymakers - there were two million of them last year - used to associate with Mallorca.

But if you opt to take a different approach to this beautiful Balearic island you will be pleasantly surprised and very impressed with what you find.